Posts by Dr. Lelan Olsen

With the summer sun beating down on us and we try to break the doldrums of summer, many people are trying to keep their pets cool by allowing them to swim.  Did you know that more than 20% of dogs have some form of ear infections?   In the hot, humid areas, it can range up in the 50% range.  Imagine that, 1 out of every 2 dogs having to deal with an ear infection. Otitis is considered a type of skin disease that is very common in pets and causes a lot of distress to owners and discomfort and pain to the pet.

Full blown ear infections are easy to detect.  There may be clinical signs that include odor, scratching or rubbing of the ears and head, discharge in the ears, redness or swelling of the ear flap or canal, shaking of the head or tilting to one side, pain around ears, or changes in your pets’ behavior.

Ear infections usually arise from primary and secondary factors that create a perfect storm for these infections.  The primary factors are those that touch of the inflammatory process that create moisture, heat and stagnate air flow which allows the secondary factors such as yeast, bacteria, swelling and debris to take hold.  The secondary factors are the ones that cause still more moisture, heat and stagnant air to build up causing a viscous cycle of misery for you pet.

The primary factors that cause ear infections include:

1. Anatomy –  The ear canal of a dog is L-shaped and many dogs have large pendulous ears.  This traps warm air, debris and moisture, creating a perfect environment for the germs to grow.  Also the Cocker Spaniel breed has more apocrine glands in the ear canal which produces more ear wax which compounds the problem.
2. Environment –  Frequent swimming, exposure to plants and pollens, time spent in wooded areas where plant awns or burrs can get lodged in the ear, or simply the humid heat of summer can set the stage for ear trouble.
3. Allergies – Itchy, infected ears can be a classic sign of allergic skin disease in dogs.  In fact otitis may be the first and only sign.  What starts out as a simple ear infection often becomes a chronic problem until the underlying allergy is addressed.
4. Parasites –  Ear mites are more common in cats than dogs.  Ear mites cause inflammation, discharge and an intense itch that can lead to self trauma and secondary infection.  These can be easily treated with diagnosis and proper veterinary care.
5. Foreign bodies – With pets that tend to like to run through tall grasses, plant awns can get lodged in the ear and cause intense itching, scratching, and secondary infection.  These can be easily seen with the use of an otoscope on examination.
6. Tumors –  Infected tumors inside the ear trap moisture and debris and are the perfect place for germs to grow.  These tend to be seen more in cats.
7. Other medical conditions –  Hypothyroidism and generalized skin disorders including seborrhea, can spark inflammation that leads to otitis externa.

The ear infections are not easy to miss, but the treatment only works when we address both the primary and the secondary causes.  So a thorough examination is important to determine this.  After looking at this, the veterinarian will then hone in on the ears.  This will include looking at the ear canal and the ear drum with an instrument called an otoscope.  Samples of the discharge may be taken to identify the yeast or bacteria by a microscopic examination or culture.

The first step in treating otitis externa is a thorough cleaning of the infected ears.  A deep cleaning rids the ear of the secondary factors such as bacteria, yeast and debris.  Sometimes the ears may be so painful, anti-inflammatories may be given to reduce the redness and pain first.  In severe cases, your veterinarian may recommend that an ear flush be conducted under sedation so that special probes and deep flushing equipment can be used.

Once the ear is clean and dry, topical medications are prescribed to keep the yeast and bacteria under control.  Your vet will prescribe medications that contain a combination of antibacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-itch medications.  In severe cases, oral antibiotics or other medications may be used.

For treatment to be successful, the underlying cause must be addressed.  This may include treating for ear mites, reducing swimming among other things.  Your veterinarian may do further blood work or other diagnostics to probe for underlying health issues like allergies and hypothyroidism.

It is important to give immediate attention to the ear infections because numerous complications can arise which may be irreversible.  These include chronic changes to the ear canals, ear hematomas, or middle and inner ear infections.  Because of this please consult your veterinarian anytime you observe your pet performing frequent head-shaking, pain, redness or discharge from your pets’ ear. And of course, contact our office if you have any questions.

With the dog days of summer upon us, we as pet owners need to be aware of heatstroke in our pets.  This can be a life-threatening condition that occurs because your pet cannot lower its body temperature efficiently, so its body temperature increases to dangerous levels.

There are many common situations that can set the stage for heatstroke.  These include:  strenuous exercise in hot, humid weather, being a brachycephalic (short-nosed) breed, suffering from heart or lung disease that interferes with efficient breathing, being confined without shade or shelter and fresh water in hot weather, being confined on concrete or asphalt and the most logical-left in a closed up car in the warm weather.

Heatstroke begins with heavy panting and difficulty breathing.  The tongue and mucous membranes appear bright red.  The saliva is thick and tenacious and the dog usually vomits.  The rectal temperature rises to 104 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.  The dog becomes progressively unsteady and passes bloody diarrhea.  As shock sits in, the lips and mucous membranes turn gray.  Collapse, seizures, coma and death rapidly ensue.

It is important to take emergency measures to begin cooling your pet immediately.  One suggestion would be to move it to an air-conditioned building and begin cooling your pet with spraying your pet with a garden hose or immersing it in cool water for up to two minutes.  Also if possible, it is helpful to place the wet pet in front of an electric fan.  Ice packs work well when applied to the groin and armpit areas because this is the area where the blood is the closest to the surface in the body.  Monitor the rectal temperature and continue the cooling process until it falls to 103 degrees.  Seeking veterinary assistance is of utmost importance since this is an emergency.  Your veterinarian will take steps to reverse the effects of heat, dehydration, and low blood pressure.  An IV catheter will be placed and fluids will be given to help get blood flowing to major organs again.

Treatment is aimed to supporting these organs in the hope that the damage that they have sustained isn’t permanent.  Unfortunately, it will often take days to know which organs have been affected.  Specific treatments may include antibiotics, blood pressure medications and blood transfusions.

Because heatstroke can be so deadly and strike rapidly, it is best to take steps to prevent it.  In hot weather, it is best to exercise your pet during the coolest part of the day (early morning and late evening) and always provide plenty of fresh, cool water and rest.  A  person can also help their pet by cooling them by allowing them to swim or spray them off with a hose after exercising.

Never leave a pet in a car during warm weather-not even for a few minutes with the windows cracked. Brachycephalic dog owners should be extra vigilant, keeping their dogs inside in air-conditioning on hot days. All geriatric, obese, and respiratory compromised pets should be exercised with caution in hot weather.

So remember if your pet is acting distressed, start cooling it down and seek assistance from your veterinarian immediately.

Millions of pets are lost each year and tragically, few are reunited with their owners.  Many lost dogs end up in shelters where they are adopted out to a new home or even euthanized.  It is important that your pet have some form of identification on them at all times.  Collars and tags are essential, but sometimes they can fall off or become damaged.  So wouldn’t it be nice to have  some form of permanent identification on them in case they lose their collar and tags?

We are living in a technology based world today, a world where people have needs that they want to be taken care of through technology.  Some people have self needs while some have needs for loved ones.  In today’s world when people are probably more concerned and caring about the pets than maybe even family members, they want their pets’ needs taken care of as well.  This growing need of pet lovers gives rise to a demand of some technological solutions for pets’ safety and security.  So because of this microchips and pet GPS technology has arisen.

Microchips are a pet identification system that is made of silicon and other inert “biocompatible “ materials that are nontoxic and hypoallergenic.  These rice sized chips are impregnated with a code that is individual to your pet and implanted into the flesh between the pet’s shoulder blades.  These chips use radio frequency identification technology that do not actively transmit information.  Because of this, they have no batteries so they last for the lifetime of the animal without replacement.

Microchips are very affordable for identifying most of the pets.  A common misconception is that they are a GPS-tracking device.  This is not true.   Although there can be some discomfort in the implantation, it is relatively short in duration, similar to a vaccination.  The microchips are virtually impossible to remove or be altered.  There are a few minimal shortcomings of the microchips though.  Since there are so many different chips on the market, many of them have different frequencies.  So some shelters may not have a reader to access the information.  Also, sometimes on rare occasions, microchips can migrate from the implantation site making it hard to find and read.  Opponents of microchips claim that studies indicate that microchips are a direct cause of cancer.  There has been no conclusive evidence to support this claim.  Lastly, the microchip is only as good as the registration, so it is important to have the information recorded in a recovery service.

In contrast, GPS devices are actively linked to real-time satellite receivers or cell-phone modems.  They are worn outside of your dog’s body and are GPS tracking devises.  They are the size of a business card and are attached to a collar.  They transmit the exact locale and even directions how to get there once you call or text the device.  They can also alert you when your dog strays.  The GPS device is relatively more expensive than microchips and some require monthly subscriptions.  The GPS unit may be too big and heavy for small dogs to wear.  Some areas have little or no cell-phone coverage or internet connectivity and since the GPS is attached to the collar, the device can be lost along with the collar.

So the next time your are thinking about getting technological help for your pets’ safety, think clearly about what is it that you exactly want from the device and then make an informed decision that meets your needs.  Both are a lot better than the lost pet poster found on the fences and telephone poles.

For more information, or if I can answer any questions or concerns, please contact my office.

With spring here, many people and their pets are starting to enjoy the fresh air.  By taking their pet out to the park or wooded areas, they may unknowingly be exposing their pet to Lyme Disease.   Lyme disease is caused by a spirochete bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi and is transmitted to people and their pets through a bite of a deer tick.  The bacteria is transmitted while the tick is sucking blood, but the tick must be attached for 48 hours for transmission to occur.

Lyme disease has been diagnosed in all 50 states in humans, but is more prevalent on the east coast and wooded areas like Minnesota.  Lyme disease does not discriminate against the dog breeds, as all breeds are susceptible.

The clinical signs of Lyme disease in dogs are numerous, but it may consist of lameness, fever, swollen lymph nodes and joints and decreased appetite.  In severe cases, clinical signs may lead to kidney disease, heart conditions, and nervous system disorders.  Animals do not have the typical rash that is seen in humans.

In order to diagnose the disease, blood testing is needed.  This testing will tell us if exposure has occurred.  If it has, oral medications are indicated.  Which usually consists of a 28 to 30 day course of an antibiotic such as Doxycycline or Amoxicillin.  Also sometimes other medications may be administered to control the pain and swelling in the pet.  Having the disease will not offer any immunity, so the pet can contract the disease again if it is exposed. So it is important to have your dog vaccinated against Lyme Disease if your pet is in wooded areas or tall grasses where the ticks inhabit.

As painful and as dangerous as the disease can be, it is important to try and prevent the disease if possible.  This may include periodic testing, use of tick control products such as topical tick control products, or collars, vaccinations, or checking frequently for ticks on your pet.  It is also helpful to avoid tall grass or wooded areas.

If you find ticks on your pet, it is best to remove them.  They can be removed by grasping them close to the skin with a fine-tipped tweezers.  With a steady motion, pull the tick’s body away from the skin.  To prevent infection, avoid crushing the tick.  After removal, clean the dog’s skin with soap and water and discard the tick by throwing it out in the trash or flushing it down the toilet.  Never use petroleum jelly, a hot match, nail polish or other products to remove a tick.  It is also best to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from exposure of the bacteria.

We can also help show you what to do if you have questions. Don’t hesitate to contact our office if you need help!

We often think of our pets as one of the family, which is what they are.  But they are not human.  Foods that are safe for us may not be safe for our pets and could be toxic to our furry friends.  They have allergies just like we do.  We need to be aware of what foods to avoid giving to our pets.  In general, we are told not to give human food to our cats, dogs, birds, and rodents.  This means no table scraps, though most of us are guilty of saving a piece of meat or some potato chips for Tabitha or Fido.  We are conditioned to look into those pleading eyes and give in.

In general, nature eliminates toxic foods before they can do harm by vomiting and diarrhea, before they can be absorbed and cause serious illness.  If you suspect your pet has eaten any type of toxic food, please note the amount ingested and contact your veterinarian. Below are my top ten foods not to give your pet.

Chocolate, Coffee, and Caffeine

You probably already know not to feed your dog chocolate, but it is worth mentioning anyway.  Chocolate, caffeine, and coffee poisoning in dogs occurs because of a chemical called theobromine, a substance which dogs can overdose on by eating chocolate.  If your pet ingests too much of these, they can have severe vomiting and diarrhea, panting excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, seizures and even death.  The dark and baking chocolates contain more theobromine, so are more dangerous than the milk or white chocolates. The average American needs caffeine infused coffee to survive, but this is not true for dogs.

Grapes and Raisins

Grapes and raisins were once thought to be a good treat for dogs—not anymore.  Since grapes are such a common people snack, they pose a risk to dogs living in the home.  Children munching down on handfuls of raisins may not know that they aren’t doing their pets a favor by sharing.  Grapes can cause acute renal failure—a sudden failure of the kidneys—along with vomiting and diarrhea.  Scientists still don’t quite know what makes grapes and raisins toxic to dogs.

Macadamia Nuts

Macadamia nuts are the most toxic of all the nuts in dogs and cats.  These famous Hawaiian nuts are considered toxic to dogs because they tend to cause gastrointestinal upsets, lethargy, vomiting, and muscle tremors or stiffness.  As few as six nuts can cause severe poisoning.  Macadamia nuts and walnuts are toxic to dogs, and these can trigger pancreatitis.

Alcohol

It goes without saying to not give your pets alcohol.  Some people actually get a kick out of getting their pets drunk.  Even small amount of alcohol can be devastating to a pet.  To do this intentional is animal abuse.  Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors,, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.

Onions and Garlic

Onions, garlic, scallions and shallots contain disulfide, a compound that can damage dogs’ red blood cells.  When dogs eat raw onions or garlic, they risk developing hemolytic anemia, which occurs when destroyed red blood cells cannot be replaced.  Eating powdered forms of onion or garlic in soups, dips, or sauces is also toxic.  Signs or internal damage, such as weakness, orange-colored urine, tiring easily or resisting movement, may not appear for a few days.  If you notice these symptoms, immediately take your dog to a veterinarian or emergency clinic where a blood transfusion may be necessary.

Baking Dough

Uncooked break dough that contains yeast can be dangerous for any dog who ingests it.  The stomach’s moist warm environment makes it perfect for the yeast in raw dough to rise, which can cause intense discomfort and lead to the dog’s stomach or bowel to rupture.  The expanding stomach can press against the dog’s diaphragm, making breathing difficult.  If your dog has eaten bread dough, she needs to be examined by a veterinarian immediately.

Avocado

Avocados contain a chemical called Persin which is poisonous to birds and cattle and there have been some reports of dogs getting sick from avocados.  It is included on my “thou shalt not” list, because it can lead to diarrhea and vomiting. The giant seed is also a choking hazard, so keep your dog our of the garbage or off the counter.  If swallowed, it can block the digestive tract and require emergency surgery.

Xylitol

Xylitol is a sweetening agent used in sugar-free gum and candy, and as a sweetener added to sugar-free baked goods.  Products containing xylitol should never be given to or within reach of dogs.  Symptoms of xylitol poisoning include vomiting, lethargy, loss of coordination, erratic behavior, disorientation and seizures.  Eating candy, gum or baked foods made with xylitol can cause a severe drop in blood-sugar levels, resulting in liver failure.  As always, if you suspect that your pet has ingested xylitol, you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

Fatty Foods

Dogs are fond of meat and other high-fat foods, but cooked and uncooked meat table scraps and fat trimmed from meat can cause pancreatitis.  Unfortunately, some people treat dogs with leftovers, and dogs sometimes treat themselves by stealing food.  Pancreatitis in dogs often follows the consumption of a fatty meal or snack.  Your dog may become very sick quickly, and if you notice symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain, it should be examined immediately and receive intensive fluid and antibiotic therapy.

Milk

Abdominal cramps and diarrhea are the usual symptoms and maybe severe.  Adult dogs and cats are lactose-intolerant.  They don’t have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk.  It isn’t even recommended to give cow’s milk to puppies and kittens.

This list is only a sampling of foods that can be toxic to your pet.  But my best advice is that if you think that it could be bad, don’t feed it to your pet. And of course, contact me if you have any questions.

Whether you’ve recently adopted or are considering it, one of the most important health decisions you will make is to spay or neuter them.  Spaying and neutering your pets offer lifelong benefits, improves your pets behavior and keeps them close to home.  So in keeping with this theme, I am offering my top ten reasons to spay or neuter your pet.

1. Spaying your pet saves lives.  An unspayed female cat and her mate will produce 2 litters per year with 2.8 kittens surviving per litter.  After 2 years, that pair could be responsible for 67 offspring.  Likewise an unspayed dog, her mate and puppies could produce about 128 puppies in 2 years.
2. Your female pet will live a longer, healthier life.  Spaying helps prevent uterine infections and breast cancer.  Those female dogs that are spayed prior to their first heat cycle can have an incidence of .05% for breast cancer.  If they are spayed after their first heat cycle, that incidence increases to 18% and after the second heat cycle, the incidence is increased to 26%.
3. Neutering provides major health benefits for your male.  Besides preventing unwanted litters, neutering your male companion prevents testicular cancer, if done before six months of age.
4. By spaying your female, your pet won’t go into heat.  By not going into heat, you won’t need to experience the yowling, frequent urination, and abnormal behavioral pattern in your cat.  Your dog won’t have that unwanted discharge for a period of an average of 3 weeks.
5. Your male dog will be less likely to roam.  A male dog will do almost anything to find a mate.  That includes digging his way under the fence and making like Houdini to escape from the house.  And once he is free to roam, he risks injury in traffic and fights with other dogs.
6. Altered males and females will be better behaved and less aggressive. The dogs will be more affectionate and focus their attention more on their human families.  On the other hand, unneutered dogs and cats may mark their territory by spraying strong-smelling urine all over the house.
7. Spaying and neutering your pet will not make them fat.  Pets get fat because of lack of exercise and overfeeding.  Your pet will remain fit and trim as long as you continue to provide exercise and monitor food intake.
8. By spaying and neutering your pets, you create a safer neighborhood. Strays cause problems in the community by preying on wildlife, cause traffic accidents and scare children.  It will also help reduce the number of animals on the streets.
9. There are NO benefits to letting your pet have a litter.  Many pet owners think that their dog is special and unique.  The fact is that the shelters are full of special and unique pets.  By allowing your children to witness your pet birth, you are teaching your children to be irresponsible.
10. Just because you have a purebred doesn’t mean it should be bred. In fact, 25% of the dogs in the shelters are purebred, not including those in the rescue groups.

Extra tip!

1. If you get or are getting a new addition to the family, I highly recommend that you consider spaying and neutering your pet because of the previous reasons.  The cost is a lot less than having and caring for a litter.  It also beats the costs of treatments from cat and dog fights that might be necessary due to them being still intact. 

For more information on spaying and neutering, don’t hesitate to contact our office today!

Many people might have acquired a new addition to their family over the holidays-namely a new puppy.  Training is probably the single most important step in raising your puppy to make ownership a positive experience.

This training includes puppy crate training.  Puppy crate training is a fantastic method of managing the safety and well-being of young puppies.  When used properly, the crate is an invaluable tool for establishing good habits in your puppies and also for preventing problem behaviors before they arise.  In spite of what you may think or have read about puppy crate training,  the truth is that we crate train puppies for their benefit – that is why we do it.

Over time the crate will become your puppy’s own private area for which they will grow to love and feel secure in.  You will come to rely on your crate to supply many important benefits such as puppy housebreaking and establishing good habits along with preventing destructive habits which we can rectify.  Another benefit from crating your puppy include protecting it from dangerous household items such as wires, poisons and foreign objects.

Proper use of the crate can help reduce the chance of your puppy developing separation anxiety.  Separation anxiety is becoming a huge problem for an increasingly large percentage of dogs.  The crate will become a place where your dog is calm, out of trouble and accustomed to being alone.

When puppy crate training is applied correctly,  your puppy cannot get into any mischief which significantly reduces any need to discipline it.  Also it makes trips and stays such as to your veterinarian or dog groomer a more bearable experience.  This makes for a far better environment in which to live for both the dog and the owner.

Besides the crate, I recommend that the puppy is provided with a nice comfortable dog bed or blanket in the crate that cannot be destroyed or chewed up.  Some chew toys that will keep the puppy occupied when in the crate, and a good clean supply of water.  It is best to have the water in a bowl that has a heavy wide base to prevent spillage in the cage.

In introducing your puppy to the crate, it is important that your puppy’s first impression and experiences with the crate are not traumatic.  We need to set it up so that your puppy views the crate as a positive object right from the start.  Your goal is for your puppy to love the crate and choose to use it rather than as a contraption it associates with isolation and loneliness.

I am going to offer a few tips that may make the crate more inviting to your puppy,  But remember, always take it slow.  It may work best to put the crate in the room with you and leave the door open wide to start out.  A central room or a large hallway may work best.

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate.  While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate.  You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect.  If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters.  Do not try to push, pull, or force the puppy into the crate.  At this early stage of introduction only inductive methods are suggested.  Overnight exception: You may need to place your pet in his crate and shut the door upon retiring.  (In most cases, the crate should be placed right next to your bed overnight.  If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in a kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small biscuit into the crate.  Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit?  It’s in your room.”  Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate.  When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise.  The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward.  Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game.  Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him.  In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog.  Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step.  This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving it alone.

One thing that you NEVER want to do is to use the crate as a tool for punishment.  This causes the puppy to fear and resent the crate. If your puppy is correctly introduced to its crate, your puppy should be happy to go into the crate anytime.

Dog crates give your dog a place that he can claim as his territory.  We just want to make sure it doesn’t interfere with yours.  Providing your puppy with a comfortable room of his own will help keep it off furniture.  In addition to the safety and comfort benefits, it will help minimize you and your puppy’s frustrations.

For any questions, just give us a call. We can’t wait to meet your newest addition!